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PSA; Dual Exhaust < Single Exhaust
A typical S2000 pumps out about 19,000 to 21,000 CMF’s at minute. CMF’s is measured as the volume of exhaust flowing through the exhaust system. To be honest, the stock 2.5 inch exhaust diameter is quite restrictive on the S2000’s F20C/F22C. That being said, the Dual-Exhaust System contains bends in the Piping, and also forces the Exhaust Stream to split into two directions. When the exhaust flow from the F20C leaves the head, and flows down the Y-Pipe, through the Cat-Converter and splits into two streams. Exhaust flow is unevenly split. The pressure inside the exhaust system will fluctuate, slowing down exhaust flow.
Single Exhaust System
A Single Exhaust system is meant to increase Exhaust Velocity.
How does is this task achieved?
By preventing Exhaust Volume from splitting into two different directions; you maintain exhaust pressure. Achieving optimum exhaust pressure keeps the exhaust flowing at velocity, while efficiently pumping the Exhaust Stream through and out of the exhaust system.
Now, if the Piping Diameter is too Big for the exhaust produces by the vehicle, the exhaust stream flows through the exhaust system very “loosely”, and suffers from consistent turbulence. (This is actually very notable on the average Honda Civic, with a unnecessary piping diameter. The bogging sound you hear at Low-RPM’s is the exhaust turbulence inside the exhaust system.) Thus, having a larger pipe diameter than required can lead to back-pressure, and reduced exhaust velocity.
If the Piping diameter is too small… ;
The Exhaust flow will be restricted, the turbulence of exhaust gases will increase temperatures inside of the exhaust systems which in turn can result in Exhaust Backfires, Damage to the Cat-Converter, or the worst case scenario… Exhaust flowing backwards through your exhaust system, and back into your compression chamber via Exhaust Valves, here-by literally choking your engine and preventing maximum compression.
All of these factors contribute to switching from a Dual-Exhaust System to a Single-Exhaust System. It’s simply much more efficient for the Engine.
Happy Tuning,
Jack Sakai
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PSA: Turbo Timers, for Dummies.
A Turbo-Timer is an electronic device that allows your vehicle to idle for a designated time after the ignition has been turned off, and serves as a fairly inexpensive way of increasing the life of your Turbocharger.
Thrust Bearing Turbochargers
Thrust Bearing Turbochargers require the lubrication of Engine Oil in order to prevent friction between the Turbocharger’s main shaft, and float-bearings. When the Vehicle is on, the Oil-Pump that lubricates the Engine also Lubricates the Turbocharger’s internal bearings through an Oil-Feel Line much like the one installed in my S2000.
Once the oil flows through the Turbocharger, it flows back out through an Exit-Line, which usually is tapped into the Oil-Pan.
Anywho, Why do THRUST Bearing Turbochargers require Turbo-Timers to enhance Turbocharger Life longetivity?
When driving for long periods of time, or short term aggressive driving, Turbocharger temperature increases. This is largely due to the fact that Exhaust Gas spools the Turbocharger, and the Process of compressing large volumes of Air creates a lot of Heat. Excessive Heat can damage the bearings, or quite literally melt them. This is where the Engine Oil comes into play. Engine oil also serves as a way of cooling the Turbocharger bearings, as the oil flows through, it carries Heat away from the center of the Turbocharger. Now, this process also increases Oil-Temperature.
If the Vehicle is Shut-Off, the Oil-Pump is no longer pumping Oil through out the Engine/Turbocharger. Thus, Oil is no longer flowing through the Turbocharger. The Oil that remains inside the Turbocharger Bearings can quite literally cook if the Turbocharger’s temperature is too High. If the Oil remaining inside the Turbocharger cooks, the Turbocharger bearings become dry, and no longer lubricated… And the next time you decide to start your vehicle, there will be no lubrication for a few seconds. ( Until your Oil-Pump can build enough Oil-Pressure to flow abudant amount of Oil through your Turbocharger.) and your bearings WILL grind with your Turbocharger’s Main-Shaft. This will cause damage over-time, and eventually wear out your bearings and your Turbocharger will start to have SHAFT-PLAY.
Turbo-Timer Miracle.
A Turbo-Timer will continue to Idle your vehicle after you have shut the ignition off. This allows the Engine Oil Pump to continue to pump Oil through the Turbocharger bearings, allowing the Engine Oil to carry away heat therefore cooling down the Turbocharger itself.
1 minute to 5 minutes of away Idle time after you have shut off your Ignition can make a 25,000 to 50,000 mile difference in Turbocharger Life.
Often Turbo-Timers have Manual Settings in which one can adjust just how much time you’d like your Vehicle to idle after the ignition has been shut-off. This allows the driver to adapt the Engine Idle time to Prior Driving Conditions.
Turbo-Timers do a simple task, however they save a lot of Tuners A LOT of money.
Note: When Turbocharged, any loss of Oil-Pressure can have a devastating effect on a Turbocharger. It is a MUST to have an Oil-Pressure Gauge active, and working at all times in your Vehicle. It can mean the difference between saving 2,000$ and wasting 2,000$.
FYI.
This post does not apply to BALL-BEARING TURBOCHARGERS.
Happy Tuning,
Jack Sakai
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PSA: Single Turbocharger Conversions?
Single, Or Twins?
Ever wondered why Toyota Supra 2JZ-GTE, GTR RB26, or VG30 owners tend to Convert their Sequential Twin-Turbocharger Systems into a Single Turbocharger Systems?
The answer is quite simple; Power Out-Put.
Sequential Twin-Turbochargers.
Twin-Turbocharger Systems suffer from lack of Top-End Power. But Why?
First off, since we’re talking about 6 Cylinder Engines, Exhaust gas is divided into two main streams of exhaust flow. One stream per Turbocharger. An Exhaust Stream composed of 3 cylinders.
Dividing 6 Exhaust Pulses in half, means each Turbocharger must be significantly smaller to be able to spool soon enough, to provide sufficient boost through out the RPM Range. Sequential Turbocharger Systems provide maximum Torque at Low-RPM’s, and not so much Horsepower up top. Maximum Turbocharger Efficiency and Power-Output is limited by the Exhaust Volume that flows out of the three corresponding cylinders designated to spool the Turbocharger itself.
Why would you fit Twin Large GT35 82AR Turbocharger on a 6 Cylinder, Sequential Twin-Turbo System? Exhaust Volume is cut in half, three cylinders are producing the exhaust volume that spools each Turbocharger. The exhaust volume being produced from Three Cylinders will have a hard-time spooling a GT35 Turbocharger with an 82AR, There will be significant Lag because the Engine will struggle to push enough Exhaust Gas through the Turbine to Spin the Turbocharger’s compressor wheel to speed to start producing efficient boost at speed.
Don’t get me wrong, Twin-Turbocharger systems can still produce enormous amounts of power. The system is efficient for Low-End Torque, Rapid Spool, and Good Top-End. However, Maximum Power-Output will never be match a Single Compressor Engine, with a Large Turbocharger.
But Why?
Imagine combining both Exhaust Streams from both pairs of 3 Cylinders and channeling it into the same Large Turbocharger?
Advantages;
Fitting one large Turbocharger onto a Single Turbocharger Manifold is by far the best setup to obtain maximum Top-End Horsepower.
- Larger Turbocharger, More compressed Air, Technically speaking more Boost per Psi.
- Single Turbocharger Systems channel all exhaust flow into one Turbine, reducing Spool-Time on Larger Turbochargers.
- Reduced Lag, and Increased Power-Output.
- Dual Waste-Gates not required, more room in the Engine Bay for Maintenance.
Channeling the combined Exhaust Flow of Six-Cylinders into One Turbocharger provides Good Spool Time, and allows for the fitting of a much Larger Turbocharger than a Sequential Twin-Turbo System. The larger Turbocharger is spooled much faster with the combined Exhaust Flow, and the volume of Air per PSI is much more compressed due to the Larger Compressor Wheel of the Larger Turbocharger.
Example; A GT42 86R Turbocharger at 8 Pounds of Boost will contain 40% - 50% more Oxygen per PSI than a T3T4 50AR Turbocharger at an equal 8 PSI of boost.
This, due to the Compression Rate of the Turbocharger. Of course the Larger Turbocharger will require a larger Inter-Cooler to cool the Compressed Oxygen off before entering the Intake-Manifold.
FYI: The more compressed the air, the higher the air temperature.
RB26, VG30, 2JZ, V6, Inline-Six Owner? Forced induction and Power-Output your priority?
Single Turbo is for you!
Plus, there is an added bonus, it’s significantly easier to Tune!
Happy Tuning,
Jack Sakai
(Back from my Vacation. Informative Posts Requests always Accepted.)
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TIP: How efficient is your exhaust system?
I’m sure after you’ve installed a Brand New Aftermarket Exhaust System, or a Custom Exhaust System, the first thing that comes to mind is . . “How much Horsepower did I gain?”
Well, Your “Butt” Dyno will always say you can “feel” the difference. But when push comes to shove, determining how much Power the Engine benefitted from the exhaust system depends on how efficient the new system is.
Now, How can you determine how efficient your exhaust system is?
Here’s a neat trick.
- Raise your car on a set of jackstands. (Both front and rear)
- Grab a piece of Chalk, slide under the car, and draw a nice, thick, visible line on the under belly of the exhaust piping. (Make sure you draw a line from the Y-Pipe to the Muffler)
- Step out from under your car, turn the vehicle on and let it idle about 5 minutes.
- Now Rev the vehicle to redline a few times, ensuring Exhaust flow reaches it’s maximum velocity and temperature inside the exhaust system.
- After about 5 minutes of “On/Off” the throttle. Step out of the vehicle and slide back under your car.
- The CHALK LINE should remain visible. Wherever the Chalk line is faded represents a point in the Exhaust System where the exhaust Gases lose velocity, and become turbulant. This turbulance causes a restriction in the exhaust flow, which results in extreme exhaust temperatures thus fading the “Chalk” line.
Give it a shot. It really works!
FYI.
If you’re switching over from an Aftermarket System, to a Custom System. Use this method to avoid Bends in the Exhaust System as well as determining appropriate Piping Diameter.
Hope this helps!
Happy Tuning,
Jack S.
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PSA: Water/Methanol Injection Part II
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PSA: Water/Methanol Injection.
Water/Methanol Injection
Many Boost enthusiasts are familiar with the method of Injecting Water/Methanol into the combustion chamber during compression to reduce Engine Cylinder Temperatures and significantly cool compressed air preventing Engine Detonation.
Water/Methanol, metaphorically speaking, is a gift from the gods. But Why?
First off, What is Water/Methanol?
Water/Methanol is a 50/50 mixture of Water, H20 . . and Methanol, CH3OH.
Now, what is Water/Methanol used for?
Water/Methanol Injection is an extremely efficient way of suppressing Detonation, and reducing inlet air temperatures. Water/Meth Injection is usually used to make more power per PSI of Boost. In other words, an Engine normally Boosting 14Psi with Water/Meth injection will be producing more power, more efficiently per PSi of Boost. The engine will also be less prone to Engine Detonation.
But Why?
How does it work?
Water/Methanol is injected through a Nozzle usually drilled in your Throttle-Body. Once the Pump-Solenoid is activated, the Water pump begins to pump the Water/methanol mixture into the compressed air flowing through the Throttle Body into the Combustion Chamber. Now, a common misconception is that Water/Methanol is pumped abundantly, flooding the cylinders. This is not true, Water/Methanol is delivered via Nozzle that releases the mixture in a “mist” state. The Mist quickly evaporates during the combustion process, the water molecules begin to absorb heat inside the cylinder, effectively reducing cylinder temperatures thus avoiding Engine Detonation. As the Methanol is evaporated, a steaming effect is created, thus cleaning the Piston surface from Gunk, and Combustion residue. The Cylinder is literally “Steam-Cleaned” from within.
Note: As the Compressed Air is cooled, it becomes Denser. Denser Air means more Fuel to burn, More fuel to burn means More Power! A cooler air charge also slows down the combustion rate and helps reduce Knock and Detonation.
Water/Meth is extremely effective for any level of Boost, as it imitates the same internal engine conditions as Race Fuel. As a matter of fact, Water/Meth allows a tuner to advance the Ignition Timing, which could greatly increase Power-Output. However, Advancing Timing under a Boosted Engine using Typical Gasoline without Water/Methanol is nearly unheard of. This is why Water/Methanol is widely popular through out the Tuning Community, specifically under Boost Conditions.
Note: Advancing Timing under Boost without Water/Methanol could cause Engine Cylinder Temperatures to Sky-Rocket resulting in Fouled Spark-Plugs, Melted Pistons, Broken Piston Rings, or Worse.
DETONATION IS AN ENGINE KILLER!
Water/Methanol kits can be made, as well as bought. Kit’s tend to go anywhere from 100$ to 350$ depending on the brand and efficiency of the Water-Pump.
Trust me when I say, Water/Methanol Injection Kits are by far one of the greatest accessories for a Boosted Vehicle. It helps the Engine perform at it’s best, efficiently, under the stress of Boost.
Happy Tuning,
Jack S.
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PSA: Why prefer N/A to Boost?
Naturally Aspirated Engines have long been a favortire amongst Old-School Tuners, and Big-Block V8 Enthusiasts. Now-a-days, technological breakthrough’s are pushing Engine Technology to a New-Level. Forced Induction, wether it’d be Turbocharging, or Supercharging engines are beginning to wipe N/A Performance off the map. It’s a well known fact, that an Engine that is Forced Inducted, will undoubtedly be more efficient, and overall make more horsepower than it’s counterpart N/A Engine.
That being said, why should YOU keep your Engine Naturally Aspirated?
Well, there are certain advantages of keeping an Engine Naturally Aspirated.
- Throttle Response. Both On/Off.
- Linear Power-Band and Delivery.
- Reliability.
Now, are any of these advantages enough to make-up for the lack of Power output. I would say so, Yes. Being the former owner of both a Turbocharged/Supercharged vehicle, and a Naturally Aspirated Vehicle, I believe I have grounds on which to base my knowledge off of.
Throttle Response
Why is this an advantage for a N/A Engine?
Example: A Turbocharged Engine Produces Boost with Exhaust Gas, as it travels from the Exhaust Manifold into the Turbine Housing spooling the Turbo. When the throttle is let off, Exhaust Pressure drops dramatically, the compressor can no longer spin fast enough to maintain desired levels. Consequently, boost is dropped instantly. When the throttle is applied once again, Exhaust Pressure must spin the Turbine once again to desired RPM to produce set Boost Levels. Once boost has been reached, the vehicle may suffer from loss of traction, or minor wheel-spin, to loads of oversteer (If boost is hit approaching the apex of a corner, or exiting the corner while on throttle.)
Naturlly Aspirated Engines are much more efficient at exiting corners at Full-Throttle without suffering from Traction Loss, or Over-Steer. A Naturally Aspirated Engine doesn’t have to wait for the Turbocharger to deliver compressed air to start producing desired Horse-Power and Torque. Therefore, there is no Lag. As long as the Vehicle is kept within it’s Power-Band, Power is delivered immediately. The Engine will respond immediately to the throttle position, delivering power accordingly. This enables the driver to feather on and off the throttle much more efficiently going into, or out of a corner, without having to worry about spooling the Turbo everytime the throttle is released!
Linear Power-Band and Smooth Power Delivery.
Linear-Power Delivery is a great thing! It means a Vehicle can evenly distribute it’s Power-Output through out it’s entire RPM. A good example for a Linear Power-Band would be the VQ35 Engine in the 350Z. The VQ35 delivers efficient Torque at Low-RPM’s, and a great deal of Horsepower near it’s Peak- Redline.
What does this mean? Well, the Engine delivers smooth amount of power at Low-RPM’s, as well as High, making the Power-Band Linear. . Evenly distributed through out the Power-Band.
(Nissan 350Z VQ35DE)
A Turbocharged Vehicle requires plenty of Tuning to successfully obtain a Linear Power-Band. Tuning can be expensive.
Turbocharged Engines usually do not have Linear Power-Bands. As Power is only delivered when Full Boost is hit, regardless of the RPM’s. This effect could be minimized with a smaller Turbocharger, which could result in Low-End Torque… However, Top-End power will be decreased dramatically. Plenty of factors come into play when obtaining a Linear Power-Band with a Turbocharged Car.
Factors are as follows;
- Turbine Housing Size; (Distiguishes How fast The Turbocharge Spools.)
- Fuel Injector Size. (Determines the amount of Exhaust is Produced to Spool the Turbo)
- Exhaust Manifold Design. (Full Race/Log.)
- Engine displacement
There are several factors that determine Power-Band/Point of Full Boost, of a Turbocharged Vehicle.
Reliability
Naturally Aspirated Engines have a higher maintenance free time-line than Turbocharged Engines. Naturally Aspirated Engines tend to last significantly longer miles than Turbocharged Engines.
But Why?
Turbocharging/Supercharging an Engine produces plenty of Heat. Heat wears bearings, and increases Cylinder Temperatures, which exposes the Engine to Detonation.
Supecharging and Turbocharging requires the Engine to power it’s main source of Oxygen. This produces Engine wear, and requires the Engine to work harder to produce power.
For example;
On a Supercharged Engine, the Supercharger belt is driven by the Crank-Pulley of the engine itself. The engine has to use momentum to power the Supercharger’s compressor wheel to compress air, and provide it to the engine. In a sense, the Supercharger steals power from the Engine, but returns it when boost is achieved. However, that power the Supercharger requires from the Engine causes wear and tear on the Crank, which over time can result in serious damage.
On a Turbocharged Engine, Exhaust Gas is needed to spool a turbocharger. This may seem like much less stress than the engine manually having to spin the Compressor (As in the Supercharger.) Now, Turbochargers seem safer correct? No.
Exhaust gases flow out of the head, through the exhaust valves, into the exhaust manifold. Now, if the Turbocharger’s Turbine Housing is small, the Turbo will spool faster, producing plenty of torque. However, if the Turbine housing is small, the exhaust gases will meet, and cause turbulance inside the manifold, and housing. Worst case senerio, exhaust can flow backwards back into the exhaust valves, therfore choking the engine from within the combustion chamber. Now, this is the worst case scenerio, but it happens quite often. An AFR Gauge is required to determine the significant change in Oxygen and Carbons when Exhaust flows back into the combustion chamber.
All in all, Choking an Engine with Exhaust Gases can also increase cylinder temperatures, again paving the way for detonation . .
(Courtesy of Detonation.)
Most of you are already aware of the fact that I’m a very, very, very, big boost fan. I will always be Boosting, until the day I die. IDGAF if it’s a Boosted Van, Oldsmobile, Etc. However, I thought I would post this in regards to my N/A Pals and Enthusiasts who continously doubt that N/A is a good platform. Stick with it, Build on it, Tune on it. It’s rewarding in many different ways Boost isn’t.
Much love,
Jack Sakai
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PSA: Tuning an Engine Management System for Boost.
Most Import Enthusiasts aren’t very familiar with Engine Management Systems. As these systems are not required to have much knowledge of unless you are planning to have complete, absolute, electronic control of your vehicle. Engine Management Systems (EMS) serve as the Automobile’s Brain. EMS System controls everything from Fuel Pressure, to Oxygen Intake, to Keeping the Engine performing under safe conditions.
Now, Stock ECU’s ( Engine Control Units ) are factory EMS systems that are pre-programmed by the Manufacturer to function under the OEM Standards. Weather the priority may be economy, or Power-output. The ECU/EMS controls it all. OEM Sock ECU Units can rarely be modified.
However, Aftermarket companies sell individual EMS systems that can be adapted to each Vehicle by a separate harness, or the OEM Harness. These EMS Systems are very useful and handy for changing any Vehicle’s Sensor Data Input, Out-Put, and How the information is translated, and acted upon.
AEM EMS Version 2.
The AEM ECU is one of the biggest preferred Engine Management Systems on the Market Today. It’s very Tuner Friendly, and extremely adaptable to Engine Conditions.
AEM EMS Capabilities over OEM ECU Units are as follows;
- Extremely modifiable.
- Up to 12 peak and hold injector drivers.
- Up to 8 direct-fire coil outputs.
- Up to 16 general purpose outputs.
- Up to 8 definable switch inputs.
- Up to 4 EGT inputs with fuel trim.
- 1MB of Internal Data Logging.
- Electronic Boost Control.
- Full Idle Control
- Programmable Traction Control.
- Software Definable Knock Control.
- Two-Step Launch Control.
- User configurable soft-cut rev limiters.
- Wet or Dry Nitrous Control.
- Tune using new USB communication port or serial port.
- Works with all AEM Gauges to display Real-Time information.
Now, What does all of this mean? Sure, sounds wordy and complicated, but what is the true value of all of these features?
Turbocharged, OEM or Aftermarket EMS?
Every tried running a Turbocharger Kit on an OEM ECU on a Vehicle that is normally Naturally Aspirated? You are EXTREMELY Restricted, and chances are your Engine won’t last 100 Miles.
Why is that?
Example Car: S2000.
OEM ECU’s cannot adapt to the ever changing conditions that an Aftermarket Turbocharger System proposes. OEM ECU’s often cannot read High-Boost levels, and are often confused by the rapid increase in Oxygen inside the Combustion Chamber. The OEM ECU will immediately panic, retard timing, and even shut the engine completely off to avoid damage. On an S2000, the Map Sensor can only read 11.5 PSI of Boost, and with a Dramatically High-Compression Ratio, the OEM ECU will panic, Limit RPM Redline, and Full Throttle Usage to bring the S2000 back to the Naturally Aspirated Conditions it is used too. Also, Turbocharging a Vehicle requires Higher Flow Fuel Injectors, and Fuel Pumps. The OEM ECU is not electronically equipped to control Higher Volume Fuel Injectors than the OEM Designated Injectors.
On the other-hand, Let’s use an Aftermarket AEM EMS System to Tune our Aftermarket Turbocharged S2000.
The AEM EMS System gives the Tuner full control over how the S2000 will behave under any Boost Condition. Now, this already is a major advantage over the OEM ECU. Adaptation is key to the performance of the Engine, and Reliability as well.
Basics of Tuning for Boost.
To avoid complicating things, a successful tune is defined as a tune that can run the maximum amount of boost, while maintaining absolutely no engine knock/ or low levels of engine knock, while keeping Injector Duty relatively at 80%, and Retarding Ignition timing accordingly.
Now,
Engine Knock; The Fuel-Air charge is meant to be ignited by the spark plug only, and a t a precise time in the piston’s stroke cycle. Knock occurs when the peak of the combustion process no longer occurs at the optimum moment for the four-stroke cycle. The shock wave creates the characteristic metallic “pinging” sound, and cylinder pressure increases dramatically. Effects from engine knock can range from inconsequential, to completely destructive… When boost is involved, completely destructive seems the be the most common result.
Ignition Timing; The Point in the Piston’s Stroke Cycle in which the Spark-Plug is designated to ignite the Air-Fuel Mixture.
Injector Duty Cycle; The Amount of Fuel the Injectors have to pump into the Combustion Chamber. ( You never want to Max-Out the Injectors, you run a very strong risk of running lean when under the conditions of Boost-Creep, which will result in Massive Engine Knock, and Boom. However, as I stated above, Running Injector Duty’s at 80% gives your EMS system an extra 20% of Fuel Injection to cover for Boost-Creep. Your EMS will adapt to boost-creep by increasing Injector Duty to compensate for the extra oxygen in the Air-Fuel Ratio.
Now, Most Tuners follow the Timing per Boost Rule. This means for every 1 Pound of Boost, Ignition timing must be decreased by 2 Degree’s. This effect Retards the Ignition Timing, and maintain’s Low-levels of Knock, while maintaining combustion safe for the Engine.
You can teach the EMS to adapt to these boost conditions by programming it to Retard Timing by 2 Degree’s, and add fuel to every time 1Psi of Boost is recognized by the EMS regardless of the RPM’s Boost is sensed.
Also, if you’re boosting 22PSi, You can do the math in regards to Retarding Ignition Timing.
Most OEM ECU’s could never imagine dealing with Engine Conditions under high-levels of Boost.
Each Tuner has his preference as too how he chooses to Tune a Vehicle.
And Aggressive tune is defined as a Tune with High-Boost Levels, Slightly Lower Fuel levels in the the Air-Fuel Mixture, in some cases, resulting in the Engine Running Lean. ( More Oxygen than Fuel in the Mixture.) Tunes like these avoid Retarding Ignition Timing as much as possible to be able to squeeze the absolute maximum amount of Horse-Power from the Engine. Engine Knock is unavoidable with aggressive tunes, the best option is to keep it at a minimum.
Note: The Leaner an Engine runs, the more power per pound of boost is produced. However, Reliability is extremely decreased.
A Conservative Tune consists of a Rich Air-Fuel Mixture, with average decrease in Ignition Timing and Low-Boost Levels. These Tunes are used for most Daily Driver Vehicles, However, they can be extremely fuel consuming considering the fact the Air-Fuel Mixture is also 3/4’s Fuel and 1/4th Air. Reliability is definitely increased, and Engine Knock is kept to a minimum. This benefits the engine on the long run. More Reliability, Less Power. Still Fun.
There are also several Safety Features an AEM EMS is programmed with.
Boost Cut
Fuel Cut
Maximum Decrease in Ignition Timing
Engine Shut-Off
Etc.
These features are are extremely helpful and easily programmable to take effect under any condition the Tuner chooses. OEM ECU’s definitely do not have this capability, and are extremely unfitted for dealing with Catastrophic Engine Conditions. Lesson being; an AEM ECU might save your Engine one day.
I hope this helps most of you get an Idea of what Tuners do a Vehicle under the Tuning Process. Specially under boost.
Note: Tuning is a complicated and time consuming task. It is also very costly. But very well worth every penny.
Thank you,
Jack Sakai
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Show the love, and join the forum!
Much love!
Jack Sakai
